fix spelling

.vscode/settings.json

@@ -1,10 +1,21 @@
 {
     "cSpell.words": [
+        "Aliexpress",
+        "BLDC",
+        "Brushless",
         "deets",
+        "Electrek",
         "focer",
         "Greenway",
+        "herrr",
+        "Kunray",
         "linebreak",
         "lolz",
-        "shitz"
+        "shitz",
-    ]
+        "vesc"
+    ],
+    "grammarly.selectors": [{
+        "language": "markdown",
+        "scheme": "file"
+    }]
 }

500And650.md

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@
   * USPS flat rate shipping and insurance from a third party
 * [Electro and Company](https://www.electroandcompany.com/buy-kits)
   * Kelly KVD7212NX controller with an additional heat sink(labeled as model Y and Model Z)
-  * The my1020+ motor is manufactured by Kunray, currently the same as the 72v 3000w but with enlarged phase wires(6mm² vs 4mm²). See section regarding larger phase wires [below](#Motors).
+  * The my1020+ motor is manufactured by Kunray, currently the same as the 72v 3000w but with enlarged phase wires(6mm² vs 4mm²). See the section regarding larger phase wires [below](#Motors).
 
 ## Motors
 
@@ -22,20 +22,20 @@
   * If you push it hard
     * You'll need a heat sink like [this](http://www.pwmall.com/p-210643-50_126-delavan_heat_sink_fits_all_4_diameter_delavan_motors_7870_7970_7871_7971_fb_series) or [this](https://www.ebay.com/itm/223589500478?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=breea_81QKq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=NRTq2ee0QjC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY):
     * ![this](images/heatsink.jpeg)
-    * You'll also want to consider **larger gauge phase** wires.  Larger gauge phase wires helps with pushing higher current(amps) into the motor with less heat loss(power loss) to the motor.  Hot wires can mean an exponential loss of power to the motor. This is only necessary if you plan to push more than about 80 battery(continuous) amps.
+    * You'll also want to consider **larger gauge phase** wires.  Larger gauge phase wires help with pushing higher current(amps) into the motor with less heat loss(power loss) to the motor.  Hot wires can mean an exponential loss of power to the motor. This is only necessary if you plan to push more than about 80 battery(continuous) amps.
 
 * Feel free to put [your old motor in your kid's 350](./350s.md#motor-upgrade)
 * [200w cheaper motor](https://www.ebay.com/itm/VEVOR-48V-2000W-Brushless-Motor-Kit-with-Controller-Grip-Key-and-3-Speed-Shifter-/164981974940?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&fbclid=IwAR1J5tH9lsmVjn5XcH6IyUKNE7UxO0cZbumSi2MqMLtC1J5cWQFaJ1VKYP0)
   * Not recommended if you plan on upgrading later
-  * May be good if your on a tight budget or don't want to go very fast(maybe a kid). Honestly, I would just stick with the stock motor at that rate.
+  * May be good if you are on a tight budget or don't want to go very fast(maybe a kid). Honestly, I would just stick with the stock motor at that rate.
-  * Untested, I only got the 3000 watt motor.  I saw someone post this in a facebook group and threw it in the wiki to open possibilities up for people.  
+  * Untested, I only got the 3000-watt motor.  I saw someone post this in a Facebook group and threw it in the wiki to open possibilities up for people.  
   
 ## Controllers
 
 * Little focer([US](https://www.makerspev.com/products/little-focer-rev3-standard?fromB=yes), [worldwide](https://customwheel.shop/high-voltage-esc-motor-speed-controllers/little-focer-v3-esc-84v-20s?fromB=yes))
   * [Video of performance](https://youtu.be/tXv10vMjH2o)
   * Highly recommended.  100 battery amps and 250 phase amps, with proper cooling.  Bluetooth android app for super easy programming.
-  * Works with **brushed** and **brushless** motors so you can upgrade yur controller before even getting a brushless motor.
+  * Works with **brushed** and **brushless** motors so you can upgrade your controller before even getting a brushless motor.
   * ![vesc tools](./images/vescUI.jpeg)  
 * [80a](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FHHZ9VM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   * Should be more waterproof than the VESC
@@ -51,68 +51,68 @@
 ## Throttle
 
 * [Half twist key and volt display](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QF3MRHB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-  * Half twist is good for not accidentally sending your bike through your door when bringing your bike inside.  Happens more than you would think.
+  * The half twist is good for not accidentally sending your bike through your door when bringing your bike inside.  Happens more than you would think.
-  * Display is hard to see in the sun.
+  * The display is hard to see in the sun.
-  * Grips will smell like cancer forever no matter how hard you try to clean it off.  Best to pick up [some better grips](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L4TGXGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).  I think those will work for the half twist size but might be a bit big.  I like locking grips(bolt to lock it on the handlebars).
+  * Grips will smell like cancer forever no matter how hard you try to clean them off.  Best to pick up [some better grips](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L4TGXGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).  I think those will work for the half twist size but might be a bit big.  I like locking grips(bolt to lock it on the handlebars).
 
 ## Brakes
 
 * [Zoom brakes](https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Shenzhen-Hydraulic-Brakes-Mountain/dp/B081XN2KJL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=SH58WS6BQGRH&keywords=zoom+brakes&qid=1645588479&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=zoom+brakes%2Csporting%2C137&sr=1-3)
-  * I think those work.  Someone please verify.
+  * I think those work.  Someone, please verify.
-* I personally welded on some moped discs and calipers.  Works amazingly well and I never worry about heat.  
+* I welded on some moped discs and calipers.  Works amazingly well and I never worry about heat.  
 
 ## Suspension fork
 
-* The [sx500 fork](https://razor.com/products/replacement-parts/shop-by-product/electric-scooter-parts/sx500-front-fork/) seem like they wont work because they are different sizes than the mx and rsf forks.  
+* The [sx500 fork](https://razor.com/products/replacement-parts/shop-by-product/electric-scooter-parts/sx500-front-fork/) seems like it won't work because they are different sizes than the MX and RSF forks.  
-* The mx500 fork will work.  Good luck finding one thats in stock lolz.
+* The mx500 fork will work.  Good luck finding one that's in stock lolz.
 
 ## Rear shock
 
 * MX
   * [165mm](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLTZ2ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for stock length
-  * [190mm](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1X18JH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for 2 inch lift
+  * [190[mm](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1X18JH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for a 2-inch lift
     * A bit stiff.  Try and find a lower lb spring.
-    * You will want to add some length to the front fork as well.  **Someone add a some deets for this.**
+    * You will want to add some length to the front fork as well.  **Someone add some deets for** this.**
   * SX
     * Stock length is 200mm 220 will give a nice lift
   * RSF
-    * Stock length is 230?? someone verify
+  * The stock length is 230?? Someone, please verify.
 
 ## Connectors
 
 * [Small wire connectors](https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Automotive-Electrical-Connectors-Motorcycle/dp/B07DL6WRLP/ref=sr_1_6?crid=YVCEOCRL8ERG&keywords=2.8+with+terminals+Electrical+Wire+Connectors&qid=1645586926&sprefix=2.8+with+terminals+electrical+wire+connectors%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-6)([option 2](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BJGVJRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1))
-  * Throttle, brake and hall wires for example
+  * Throttle, brake, and hall wires for example
   * `2.8 with terminals Electrical Wire Connectors` is what they are called.
   * This is what most controllers use.
   * You will need a [crimper](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-* [XT90s](https://amzn.to/3BKHLG8) connectors for the battery is recommended to avoid sparking when plugging the battery into the controller.
+* [XT90s](https://amzn.to/3BKHLG8) connectors for the battery are recommended to avoid sparking when plugging the battery into the controller.
   * Stick with the amass branded connectors.
   * They are rated for 100a.  If you have a 300a battery you can just use 3 connectors for example.
   * They can use up to [10 gauge silicone wire](https://amzn.to/3vbVEfs).  Any larger than that is a waste and hard to solder.
 * [Bullet connectors](https://www.amazon.com/Generic-5-5mm-Gold-Bullet-Connector/dp/B01MRXLVRD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=5.5mm+bullet+connector&qid=1645583504&sprefix=5.5mm+bull%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-4) for the motor phase wires.
-  * See the image below for amp ratings.  I use 5.5mm bullets for everything because they do about 100 amps.  If I need more amps I just do 1 connector per phase per 100 amps.  I basically just match them up with the same number of [XT90s](https://amzn.to/3BKHLG8) connectors I use.  
+  * See the image below for amp ratings.  I use 5.5mm bullets for everything because they do about 100 amps.  If I need more amps I just do 1 connector per phase per 100 amps.  I just match them up with the same number of [XT90s](https://amzn.to/3BKHLG8) connectors I use.  
     * ![amp ratings](./images/bullets.jpeg)
   * Depending on the controller you get you'll want to replace the phase wires to use bullet connectors so that you don't have to use one of these shit boxes:
     * ![shit boxes](./images/shitBox.jpeg)
   * The shit boxes are nothing but problems because the plastic melts easily when the nuts come loose.  I have seen this many times and it usually doesn't end well and can take your controller down with it.
-  * If your controller has built in phase wire mounts(like the one below) you should be fine to just go with whats built in.
+  * If your controller has built-in phase wire mounts(like the one below) you should be fine to just go with what's built-in.
     * ![ok controller mount](./images/kelly.png)
 
 ## Tires
 
-* Note that you will be looking for motorcycle tires because you have motorcycle rims.  Electric scooter type tires measure the diameter from the outer tread of the tire.  Motorcycle tires measure the diameter of the rim.  Don't buy scooter tires unless they say moped scooter.
+* Note that you will be looking for motorcycle tires because you have motorcycle rims.  Electric scooter-type tires measure the diameter from the outer tread of the tire.  Motorcycle tires measure the diameter of the rim.  Don't buy scooter tires unless they say moped scooter.
 * Rear
   * You need a 10 inch
-  * Rear tire 3 inch max width for the rim
+Rear tire 3-inch max-width for the rim
   * [Pirelli Angel Scooter Tires](https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pirelli-angel-scooter-tires)
     * Pretty grippy on the road
     * Won't work with a heat sink without modifications
   * [MMG Bundle Combo Knobby Tire](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010TLKLLW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
 * Front
-  * 12 inch front tire
+12-inch front tire
-  * Front tire 2.75 maybe 3 inch max width for the rim
+  * Front tire 2.75 maybe 3-inch max-width for the rim
-  * [16 inch scooter tire thats actually 12 inch motorcycle tire](https://cart.electricscooterparts.com/16x3-0-all-terrain-tread-electric-street-scooter-tire)
+  * [16-inch scooter tire that's actually a 12-inch motorcycle tire](https://cart.electricscooterparts.com/16x3-0-all-terrain-tread-electric-street-scooter-tire)
-    * Kinda like an 80/20 tire meaning 80% road 20% off road
+    * Kinda like an 80/20 tire meaning 80% road and 20% off-road
     * Because this tire is so wide be very careful when installing it on the rim.  The rim is pretty weak and can bend easily.  Be sure to use [some tire lube](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6HMPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
     * May have slightly less clearance but didn't bother me.
   * [Knobby Tire with Inner Tube 3.00-12 Front or Rear Trail Off Road Dirt](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010TM2AYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
@@ -120,8 +120,8 @@
   * [Good video](https://youtu.be/ToeaB1SpH2s)
   * Get [some tire lube](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6HMPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) if you plan to replace your own tires.  Makes it a million times easier.
   * [A tire bead tool](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8RWF5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) helps if you don't have someone to hold down your spoon
-  * [These spoons](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QG0AKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) are coo but honestly it doesn't matter as long as you lube up the tire.
+  * [These spoons](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QG0AKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) are coo but honestly, it doesn't matter as long as you lube up the tire.
-  * **Don't [bend your spoon too far](https://youtu.be/ToeaB1SpH2s?t=187)** or you'll pop your tube.  Its pretty much guaranteed.
+  * **Don't [bend your spoon too far](https://youtu.be/ToeaB1SpH2s?t=187)** or you'll pop your tube.  It's pretty much guaranteed.
 
 ## Other Parts
 

CONTRIBUTING.md

@@ -1,10 +1,10 @@
 # How to contribute
 
-* View the project on GitHub. ![view on GitHub button](./images/contributing/8ABF4377-DCB6-4F11-8A7F-5E295029AC22.jpeg)
+* View the project on GitHub. ![View on GitHub button](./images/contributing/8ABF4377-DCB6-4F11-8A7F-5E295029AC22.jpeg)
 * Navigate to the file you want to edit.
 * Click the edit button on the file you want to update.  You can do more than one file at a time. ![edit](./images/contributing/1editButton.png)
-* Make changes.  Feel free to research markdown syntax if you want to learn something cool.![changeStuff](./images/contributing/2changeStuff.png)
+* Make changes.  Feel free to research markdown syntax if you want to learn something cool.![change stuff](./images/contributing/2changeStuff.png)
 * Add a commit message.  Should attempt to be useful like `rename this thing`![commitMessage](./images/contributing/3commitMessage.png)
-* Add details to your pull request(pr).  Something like `add guide for doing this to this bike`![prDeets](./images/contributing/4pullRequestDeets.png)
+* Add details to your pull request(pr).  Something like `add a guide for doing this to this bike`![prDeets](./images/contributing/4pullRequestDeets.png)
-* Click create pull request button then wait for my lazy ass to give feedback or add your changes to the main repository. ![prButton](./images/contributing/5createPRButton.png)
+* Click the `Create Pull Request` button then wait for my lazy ass to give feedback or add your changes to the main repository. ![prButton](./images/contributing/5createPRButton.png)
-* Yay you did a thing!  Now sit back and wait for someone else to do a thing. ![yay](./images/contributing/6yayPr.png)
+* Yay, you did a thing!  Now sit back and wait for someone else to do a thing. ![yay](./images/contributing/6yayPr.png)

batteries.md

@@ -1,16 +1,16 @@
 # Batteries
 
-## Buying used lithium ion batteries
+## Buying used lithium-ion batteries
 
-* When you first get the battery test the voltage from the discharge plug(the one with the thickest wires coming out). If way less than the rated voltage proceed with immense caution. The BMS shut itself off for some reason. The most likely reason is that the cells were under voltage and the BMS cut off the discharge port to prevent the cells from reaching a much lower voltage and causing permanent damage. To wake the bms up plug in the charger for about a minute then test the voltage again. Hopefully, it should be in a more reasonable range.  If the BMS does not turn itself back on I would return the battery. It’s not worth catching your house on fire 🔥.  The BMS has good reason to not turn itself back on, usually.  Do not attempt to continue charging it.
+* When you first get the battery test the voltage from the discharge plug(the one with the thickest wires coming out). If way less than the rated voltage proceed with immense caution. The BMS shut itself off for some reason. The most likely reason is that the cells were under voltage and the BMS cut off the discharge port to prevent the cells from reaching a much lower voltage and causing permanent damage. To wake the BMS up plug in the charger for about a minute then test the voltage again. Hopefully, it should be in a more reasonable range.  If the BMS does not turn itself back on I would return the battery. It’s not worth catching your house on fire 🔥.  The BMS has good reason to not turn itself back on, usually.  Do not attempt to continue charging it.
 * When dealing with a battery that has been sitting for a while(even new batteries, or a battery that you haven’t used in a couple of months) the most dangerous time is during the first charge. **Stay close to the battery and be prepared to throw it outside.**. This is because the longer a battery sits the more likely they are to be out of balance.
-* When you first receive the battery don’t fully discharge it.  In fact don’t discharged at all. This is because the cells may be out of balance. When you discharge a pack with out of balance cells you can potentially bring the lower cells to a way lower voltage that can cause permanent damage. You will want to charge it to 100% full so that the BMS can enter the balancing stage. If it’s a really old battery you can do this a couple of times to ensure that it’s balanced even better by discharging it slightly after reaching a full charge then charging it again. Once it’s charged you wanna let it sit overnight while being unplugged from the charger that way the balancing stage has plenty of time to complete. I’ve found that doing this twice is enough for most batteries to become fully balanced.
+* When you first receive the battery don’t fully discharge it.  Don’t discharge it at all. This is because the cells may be out of balance. When you discharge a pack with out-of-balance cells you can potentially bring the lower cells to a way lower voltage that can cause permanent damage. You will want to charge it to 100% full so that the BMS can enter the balancing stage. If it’s a really old battery you can do this a couple of times to ensure that it’s balanced even better by discharging it slightly after reaching a full charge and then charging it again. Once it’s charged you wanna let it sit overnight while being unplugged from the charger that way the balancing stage has plenty of time to complete. I’ve found that doing this twice is enough for most batteries to become fully balanced.
-* When installing the battery it’s very important to not let it bounce around at all and to put padding anywhere the battery comes into contact with metal. [Closed cell foam type padding](https://www.amazon.com/Artilife-Neoprene-Perfect-Cosplay-Padding/dp/B08FX3V8Z7/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=closed+cell+foam&qid=1645587858&sprefix=closed+cell+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-7) that bounces back after compression is needed. You probably got some in the shipping box that your battery came with.
+* When installing the battery it’s very important to not let it bounce around at all and to put padding anywhere the battery comes into contact with metal. [Closed-cell foam type padding](https://www.amazon.com/Artilife-Neoprene-Perfect-Cosplay-Padding/dp/B08FX3V8Z7/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=closed+cell+foam&qid=1645587858&sprefix=closed+cell+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-7) that bounces back after compression is needed. You probably got some in the shipping box that your battery came with.
 * Check the plug for corrosion.  If there’s a lot of carbon buildup a.k.a. black stuff you may need to replace the plug. The plug should be shiny and golden colored. Don’t just use a plug with a bunch of black stuff on it it’s going to melt away in no time.  Check both discharge and charge ports.
-* If storing for the winter, discharge battery to between 50-70% charge. This will help keep the cells in balance.  Try to keep the batteries inside and not let them get too hot or cold. They like to be above freezing and below 40c. They also don’t like to be in a damp musky basement. If storing unused for more than a couple of weeks it’s a good idea to unplug them from the ev.  Use a multimeter to make sure the battery doesn’t have a slow drain. If so your battery may have an issue and you should proceed with caution. Batteries should be able to go 6 months or more without a significant drop in voltage while being stored.
+* If storing for the winter, discharge battery to between 50-70% charge. This will help keep the cells in balance.  Try to keep the batteries inside and not let them get too hot or cold. They like to be above freezing and below 40c. They also don’t like to be in a damp musky basement. If storing unused for more than a couple of weeks it’s a good idea to unplug them from the EV.  Use a multimeter to make sure the battery doesn’t have a slow drain. If so your battery may have an issue and you should proceed with caution. Batteries should be able to go 6 months or more without a significant drop in voltage while being stored.
 
 ## eBay
 
-* I tried to find a cheap 30ah 48v battery on eBay, what a shit show. These eBay sellers are getting really bad. Don’t be fooled by the huge ah rating. There’s no possible way to cram that much capacity in a 3p battery. The cells would need to be 10,000 mah each. No 18650 can even come close to that and I highly doubt they are using larger cells.  I am sure the other specs are inflated as well like amp rating.  If you exceed the amp rating on the battery you may cause cells to pop and cause the whole pack to go up in flames during a full throttle pull, especially with a low quality BMS.  I messaged one of the sellers(screenshots below) to try and get the cell they are using so I could calculate the ah rating myself and they tried really hard to scam me. Please be careful on eBay. It may be an ok cheap battery when low amps are drawn but the specs are 100% fake.
+* I tried to find a cheap 30ah 48v battery on eBay, what a shit show. These eBay sellers are getting really bad. Don’t be fooled by the huge ah rating. There’s no possible way to cram that much capacity in a 3p battery. The cells would need to be 10,000 mah each. No 18650 can even come close to that and I highly doubt they are using larger cells.  I am sure the other specs are inflated as well like amp rating.  If you exceed the amp rating on the battery you may cause cells to pop and cause the whole pack to go up in flames during a full-throttle pull, especially with a low-quality BMS.  I messaged one of the sellers(screenshots below) to try and get the cell they are using so I could calculate the ah rating myself and they tried really hard to scam me. Please be careful on eBay. It may be an ok cheap battery when low amps are drawn but the specs are 100% fake.
   * ![ebaypoo](images/ebayPoo.png)
-  * [eBay messages from seller of scam item](ebayMessages.md#end)
+  * [eBay messages from the seller of the scam item](ebayMessages.md#end)

ebayMessages.md

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-# messages from ebay seller
+# messages from eBay seller
 
 ## read top to bottom by scrolling to the [end](#end) first